Success of Rose wines: trend or structural change?

作者: Diego Bonnel        来源: 《酒典》www.winemagcn.com|原创作品 谢绝转载

In 2014, contrary to the rest of the wines, still Rose wines has seen their market share increase on the global scene. In a general downward trend, Rose wine production and consumption has increased and become more international: 39% of all Rose wines drunk globally have crossed a frontier. Is this just a mere trend or rather a consumption pattern that is here to stay? In order to answer this question, let’s have a look at what happens on the market and then dive into the intricacy of the consumer’s mind.

A consistent growth*.

In 2014, Rose wine consumption has increased by 9,5% compared to that of the rest of still wines making this kind of wine a dynamic one. Consumption has reached 22,3 million (M) hectoliters (hl). France is the first market, with 8,1 M hl, followed by the USA (2,9 M hl). The other main countries consuming Rose wines, Germany and the UK, tend to see their consumption stagnate. Spain, a Rose producing country, has even seen its consumption slightly decrease.  

Global consumption increase comes mainly from consistent growth consumption in France (+40% between 2004 and 2014) and the arrival of new countries on the Rose scene (Czech Republic, Sweden, China…). In France, Rose market share was 17% in 2004 and 29% in 2014. This figure is 17% in Belgium, 12% in The Netherlands, 10% in the UK and 9% in the USA.

Without surprise, main Rose producers are France, Spain, the USA and Italy. France has produced 7,8 M hl in 2014, Spain being a distant second with 4,5 M hl. The USA produces 3,2 M hl mainly of “blush” type wines, the White Zinfandel epitomizing this style, with low alcohol (9 – 11%) and a small amount of residual sugar (15 – 20 g/l), depending on the wineries producing it.

Rose wine wars*.

Export markets and the will to conquer them are also true for Rose wines. 39% of them have been exported in 2014. Main exporters are Spain, Italy and France. These three countries represent over 70% of all Rose wines exported worldwide. In this war, France is the one exporting the more value, with over 33% of the total. Spain competes on cost, with 20% of the value exported. Looking at the import side, volumes traded have increased by 78% in 10 years (2004- 2014), meaning that Rose wines are truly international.

 (*) All data come from CIVP / France Agrimer / Abso Conseil.

Consumers see Rose wines differently.

In a few decades, the image and perception of Rose wines has changed dramatically. This evolution expresses a deep alteration of the consumer’s behavior.

Today’s consumer has become a discoverer: s/he likes to engage with other cultures, flavors and tastes. Watchful, alert, s/he wants to be surprised and can become a zapper. The immediate consequence is that s/he can be unfaithful and questions established protocols. The range of savors is wider than ever: exotic foods from all over the world are attracting more and more consumers. Traditional meal (appetizer – main course – desert) has been replaced by a lighter, faster way to eat. Food is linked to conviviality, friendliness and freedom without codes. In this general context, the image of Rose wines has evolved and has seen its consumption rise in many countries, with France leading this evolution as previously seen.

There is a natural convergence between the spirit of the current time (everything has to be immediate, reward must come right away) and the consumer’s expectations. In this respect, Millenials’ profile resonates well with what Rose wines represent. Millenials, who have released themselves from the influence of wine critics, want to make up their own opinion. They want truth and are more receptive to stories than to facts. Message of naturalness / authenticity of wine resonates well with them. Rose wines, since they are easy to understand, offer this precise message. Moreover, Rose wines are closely associated with two positive values: difference and affection. Rose is a different wine, at odds with the traditional values of the world of wine. Its consumption is based on codes, which are out of step with the wine of other colors. Rose wine is not aimed to simply accompany a meal. It is drunk between meals and appeals to a certain form of conviviality. It goes along the quest for a new form of simplicity, freedom and spontaneity. It is also a wine evoking affection. It benefits from the enthusiasm and consideration of the consumer, probably due to the drinking occasions it conveys.

Rose wines in Japan.

Even if men think that Rose wines are hard to define, for women they are easy to drink, they are fresh and fruity. They are trendy, offer a nice color, have a stable price and they instill trust. They also offer the advantage that they can be drunk in all simplicity, without ceremony. They fit all circumstances: they can be drunk at parties, outdoors, with Japanese, Chinese and European cuisine. Country of origin is not so important. Men and women think in any case that foreign Rose wines are better than Japanese Rose wines, so they offer a huge potential in Japan.

Along with an increased infatuation of drinkers for Rose wines, an enhanced competition is forcing producers to consolidate the image and typicity of their wines to be able to preserve their value and attractiveness. Thus the competition between countries like France and Spain to create value for the consumer.

A wine with many advantages.

Rose wines are the only wines to have a real color. A lot of red wines are generally very dark, almost black, which is in fact a lack of color. White wines are almost transparent, which is also a way to renounce to any color expression. Regarding Rose wines, they offer an astonishing range of colors, from light red to the clearest orangey color. Beyond aesthetics, Rose color is a way to state an essential identity, linked to a specific landscape. In France, light Rose color indicates Provence. An almost red one will tend to locate the wine in the Gironde region. In both cases, a relief – or lack of it, is evoked. Elsewhere, Rose color will allude to the impressive and nearly infinite landscapes of California or to the Andean Piemont.

Completing this characteristic, Rose wines are also close to the consumer. They are widely available at an affordable price. This non-elitist component makes that Rose wines are neither ordinary wines nor common wines. They are everybody’s wine, close to all social classes, drunk without any ceremony or protocol and in hundreds of ways, making that everyone can feel close to this wine. Offered without any flaunt or any preliminary precautionary measure, it is not made to affirm a social status but rather to give immediate pleasure. Rose wines do not need any winemaking or tasting knowledge because it offers a discursive thematic opened to everyone. Rose wines appeal to the experience of the consumer. They are the wines of conviviality and for that reason they create in turn conviviality among drinkers.

Producers listen to the market.

Beyond the fact that Rose wines are in line with the consumer’s expectations and the spirit of the time, producers do adapt their wines to the latter. For instance, E & J Gallo produce a White Zinfandel Rose with 39 g/l Residual sugar and low alcohol (8,5% abv). The aim is to obtain a fresh pink wine so as to serve as an entry door to the world of wine for new consumers. More astonishing, Croft produces a Croft Pink Port wine, fresher and lighter in style than traditional Ports. The aim here is to offer a Port which can be drunk in the hottest months of the year, when others styles of Port are not so appreciated. 

As a conclusion, Rose wine is here to stay among wine drinkers of all kinds. In France, the growing enthusiasm for this color has been running for over a decade now, making the structural reasons explain this fact rather than just temporary or short-term ones. In emerging countries, Rose are wines close to the consumer because they are easy to understand, they do not need any specific previous knowledge, they are affordable and easy to find. Besides, they resonate well with the freedom and search for new experiences. Long life then to Rose wines and their infinite variations!

 

 

作者简介:Diego Bonnel, 为多家酿酒厂担当葡萄酒顾问,在数个 国家的官方机构任职,超过 25 年。每年品尝数千款酒,特 别了解(以西班牙和葡萄牙为主的)伊比利亚半岛和法国 的葡萄酒。

该文刊登于《酒典》杂志 2016 年 09 月 刊
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