Volcanic Wines, A new Concept of Terroir?

作者: Diego Bonnel        来源: 《酒典》www.winemagcn.com|原创作品 谢绝转载

In a crowded wine market, the customer has more and more choices. In this scenario, product differentiation appears as a key marketing and communication strategy. The concept of volcanic wines is a unique way to position wine. Cross-territorial marketing can streamline all marketing actions and convey a clear and powerful message that resonates well with Millenials and gives an increased visibility to volcanic wines. However, these opportunities will be transformed into tangible gains for proucers only if there is a serious investment in education, quality is consistent and if a legal framework exists.

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Cross-territorial marketing: a new tool at the service of a new concept of terroir.

Cross-territorial marketing: a definition.

Cross-territorial marketing is the collective effort of different territories – here wine producing regions – all located on volcanic soils – to enhance the value of these territories and adapt them  to be better prepared to attract clients and consumers alike and build an offer perceived as superior to that of the rest of the competitors. In this respect, the collective building up of a strong brand linked to volcanic soils is part of the commitment of the members of the Volcanic wine association. This cooperation implies that each member is conscious that the sum of their combined efforts offers a higher value than the effort of each member considered individually. This also implies that producers within the group are not competitors but rather colleagues pursuing an identical goal.

Cross-territorial marketing gathers a common message under the same umbrella, optimizing the use of resources.

The Volcanic wine association serves as an umbrella giving power to each member. Its aim is to create synergies and initiate virtuous forms of cooperation between producers (Giovanni  Ponchia, oenologist of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave). It has a role to play in the creation and valorization of place through terroir. One of the virtues of this cooperation is to build a collective brand, gaining an increased visibility over time. In turn, individual brands are also valued. Promotion is easier, members can exchange information about the market, about competitors and get mutual logistic support (Wine marketing. A practical guide. C.Michael Hall and Richard Mitchell. BH. 2008). And this strategy works. Mario de Grazia (Tenute Terre Nere in Etna), producing 200.000 bottles a year sells everything from one vintage to the other. As for Ciro Biondi, from Ciro winery, also in Etna, he is now able to sell his 22.000 bottles produced every year at a higher price than it used to in the past.

The Volcanic wine association also favors information exchange, better understanding of the common characteristics of the wines and a better definition of identity, brand and communication. In this aspect, for Mario de Grazia, cross-territorial marketing is positive, since it allows producers to gather, exchange, better understand their wines and thus better communicate about them. Cross-territorial marketing in place through different events and gatherings allows the creation of an ever-stronger link with a specific territory (in this case a volcanic soil), which is of key importance to sell wines. Finally, it is a good way to promote wine tourism and build wine tours in common. Wine tourism favors cellar door sales which give the wineries increased consumer exposure, enhanced brand awareness and loyalty, increased margins and educational opportunities. All completed by an enhanced marketing intelligence on products and customers.

Completing cross-territorial initiatives, communication is also favored.

Volcanic wines offer a powerful message, easy to understand. Volcanoes are authentic, so are the wines coming from volcanic soils. Volcanic wines differentiate themselves based on physical and marginal psychological and symbolic elements. These symbolic qualities are often determinants of the customer’s evaluation and choice. For Oliver McCrum, California based importer of volcanic Italian wines, these wines offer a tremendous marketing angle: volcanic wines have a dramatic note, are interesting and intriguing.

Not only is the message conveyed by volcanic wines powerful, it is also associated with a unique terroir and wine profile. Drainage, unique relief and slopes are common features to all volcanic sites planted with ungrafted vines. Pest and disease pressure is low and a variety of altitudes allows every grape variety to find the right spot. Wines are also unique. For Charles Frankel, (Vins de Feu, Dunod, 2014), most volcanic wines have a certain earthiness, some spiciness and pepperiness. For Oliver McCrum, white volcanic wines offer a flinty character while reds have gun-powder and tar notes. For Jamie Goode (The Science of Wine: From Vine to Glass), volcanic wines coming from dark volcanic soils produce wines that are riper, weightier, richer, and with texture and minerality that are the most age worthy. Besides, the range of wine styles covers all consumption occasions, as remarks Charles Frankel, going from dry to sweet, from red to white and even sparkling.

Another key communication opportunity is that volcanic wine message resonates with Millenial’s profile and expectations. Millenials want truth and are more receptive to stories than to facts. Message of naturalness / authenticity of wine resonates well with them and should be part of marketing to this generation. They seek truth and only authentic, interesting stories resonate with their experience and attitudes (Authentic Wine, Goode and Harrop).

Last but not least, volcanic wines are awarded a permanent visibility since they are always in the press and the media. Etna’s last eruption took place in December 2015, and media of the whole world covered the story. And the more communication there is, the higher the level of consumer knowledge, which in turn determines a higher level of involvement. Those who are interested by volcanic wines, will seek even more information about them and become even more involved. And since there is a clear link between consumer involvement and wine consumption, once again clear, powerful communication is key. (Place-based marketing and regional branding strategy perspectives in the California wine industry. Johan Bruwer / Ray Johnson).

Volcanic wines: a new opportunity for producers if certain conditions are gathered.

However, all these opportunities will result in tangible advantages for producers only if certain conditions are fulfilled.

Education has to be developed at all levels. Importers have to believe in the concept and transmit the message down the distribution channel. California Importer Oliver Wines favors education, organizing tasting seminars of volcanic wines. His customers offer in turn flights of volcanic wines. The job of retailers, sommeliers and journalists must also be made easy. Messages must be packed into an easy form so that all these players in the value chain can take responsibility for selecting and recommending volcanic wines. This way, even if the consumer can’t tell the difference in wine quality, he is getting satisfaction from other non sensory factors associated with the product.

An additional aspect to take into account is the packaging of volcanic wines. Since wine is one of the few products where consumption is closely linked to packaging – the bottle sits in from of you on the table, reminding you of its origin, its heritage and its story – label design and the information on the label are critical. For that reason, the use of the Volcanic Wines logo should be widespread: it is an easy way to make a significant difference and make things easy for the consumer.

Along with education, quality of Volcanic Wines must be consistent. The consumer will buy the wines if he/she can trust their quality. A serious gap in quality among producers cannot exist, since it would be detrimental to the overall message of authenticity and uniqueness. In this respect, the existence of an official / legal framework would help in order to assure consistent quality across vintages and regions.

As a conclusion, the volcanic wine concept translated into cross-marketing initiatives and communication messages is a great opportunity for volcanic wine producers all across the globe. It not only offers an increased efficiency of all actions but also a framework to better promote volcanic wines. Messages transmitted by this terroir are powerful, unique and resonate with Millenials in a permanent way. However, all these benefits will only by reached if education work extends itself across the whole value chain, wine quality is consistent and a legal framework exists to assure that quality.

作者简介:Diego Bonnel, 为多家酿酒厂担当葡萄酒顾问,在数个 国家的官方机构任职,超过 25 年。每年品尝数千款酒,特 别了解(以西班牙和葡萄牙为主的)伊比利亚半岛和法国 的葡萄酒。

该文刊登于《酒典》杂志 2016 年 05 月 刊
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